Granny rectangles are an interesting variation of the standard granny square pattern. They are just as simple to make, and can be used to make anything that you wish to be rectangular in shape!
Granny Rectangles Tutorial for Beginners
The most difficult part of granny rectangles is just getting started, and even that is pretty easy! To make the granny rectangle, instead of starting with a magic circle or a chain ring, you will start with a straight foundation chain. But more about that later!
Supplies to Make Granny Rectangles
You will need to decide on the final look you want to achieve before you decide which yarn to use.
Do you want to go for that traditional granny square look, changing colors every round? Or do you want a more sedate, single-colored rectangle? The compromise is to choose one of those large ‘cakes’ of yarn, where the color changes gradually from light to dark and back again. This gives a pleasing ombre effect.
So, decide on your yarn type. Then choose a crochet hook that will work well with that yarn. The yarn wrapper will give you the most suitable size hook for that particular yarn.
- Crochet Hook
- Yarn or Tapestry Needle
Abbreviations Used in Making a Granny Rectangle
In these instructions, I will be using American crochet terms.
How to Make A Granny Rectangle Step by Step
The size of your foundation chain will depend on what size and shape of the rectangle you are wanting to make. You may want to make many small rectangles to join together, or you may want to just keep going around and around in one piece until your rectangle is the required size.
Whatever you choose, your foundation chain must always be a multiple of 3,+2. For demonstration, I am going for a starting chain of 12 +2 = 14 stitches, and multiple colors.
If you are wanting to make a large rectangle, you will need to start with a longer foundation chain. However many chains you start with, the method is the same!
- Work into the 4th ch from the hook. (Turning ch, acts as 1st dc.)
- Into this ch, work 2 dc.
- Sk 2 ch.
- Work 3 dc into next ch.
- Repeat from * to the end of the foundation ch row.
You will have worked 3 dc into your last ch.
Now you need to create the corners of the rectangle.
- Work 2 ch
- Work another 3 dc into the same ch as the last cluster.
- 2 ch.
- Work another 3 dc into that same ch again.
You will have worked 3 clusters all into the same ch, which is stretching things a bit, (literally!) but this only happens in the first round.
- So far you have formed your first 2 corners.
- Now continue with the sequence of ch1, sk2, 3 dc into the next ch around the other side of the foundation chain.
Your clusters should be mirrored exactly, so each 3 dc cluster will be worked into the same ch of the first side.
When you work to the end of the ch again, you will need to create the next 2 corners.
- Then 2 ch, 3 dc into the same stitch again for the corner.
- 2 ch, sl st into the top of your first turning ch.
- If working in a single color, sl st into the 1st 2 dc of the 1st cluster. This moves your yarn along to the next space.
- Change colors if desired. Join new color to the corner space.
- Ch3. (turning ch, counts as 1 dc.)
- Work 2 dc into this same corner space.
- Keep working 3 dc, ch1 into each ch1 space along the first side.
- When you get to the 1st corner: 3dc, 2ch,3 dc all into the 2ch space.
- Ch1, then work 2nd corner in exactly the same way.
- Work along the other long side of your rectangle, working 1 ch, 3dc into each space.
- 3rd corner: 1 ch,3 dc, ch2 3dc into 2 ch space.
- 4th corner: You should already have half of your corner made at the start of this round. So just work1 ch, 3 dc, 2c into that space from the previous round, then join to the top of the turning ch with a sl st.
Continue working in the same way around all subsequent rounds. Make the corners, in the same way, each time. You will have more spaces and clusters in each round.
Lots of ends still to be woven in here! Keep working as long as you like, until the rectangle is the size you want it to be.
You can use your practice rounds as a neat little bookmark!
Method 2 of Making a Granny Rectangle
The method given above is the simplest version of a granny rectangle. However, some crocheters don’t like working so many stitches into the foundation chain!
If this is you, here is how to work the rectangle with a more substantial middle.
- You will still start with a foundation chain of a multiple of 3 +2.
- Then: Turn your work, work into 3rd ch from hook, and crochet a row of one sc into each ch, all the way along.
- This gives you your firmer central foundation.
- Ch3 (equal to 1st dc), 2 dc into first sc stitch.
- * sk2,ch 1, 3 dc into next st.*
- Repeat from * to * until the end of the row.
- 3 dc into space formed by 2 ch at the start.
- Ch2, 3 dc, ch2, 3dc, all into the same space. (Corners formed.)
- Work back along the foundation row of sc, working clusters into the same sts as before to create a perfect mirror image.
- 3 dc into last st.
- Ch 2 3 dc into same space as 1st cluster.
- Ch2, sl st into top of the 3 ch you worked at the start of this round.
- Change colors if desired, and continue in rounds, in the same way, working 3 dc, 1 ch into each space all the way, then 3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc into each corner space.
Solid Granny Rectangles
For those of you who are not fans of that distinctive granny cluster look, it is possible to make more solid rectangles, with spaces only in the corners.
- Start, as explained with a foundation ch.
- Work 3 ch, (turning ch= 1 dc), then 1 dc into each ch to the end.
- To turn and create a corner, work *2 dc, ch2, 2dc into the last ch.
- ch2, 2dc, still working into the same ch.
- Then dc into each ch along the other side of the foundation chain, keeping symmetrical stitches.
- Create a corner by working (2dc, 2ch) twice. Then close the round by working a sl st into the top of your turning ch.
- Continue in rounds like this until your rectangle is the required size.
It will be a stiffer and firmer than a traditional granny rectangle because it has fewer spaces in between stitches. You will still have corner gaps, though, as you need those to turn corners and still let the fabric lie flat,
Troubleshooting Granny Rectangles
Because these are so simple, not very much can go wrong! But here are some problems you may encounter:
Why is my rectangle not lying flat?
If the rectangle is curling, there are 3 possibilities- tension, hook size, or corners. Your tension may be too tight, in which case, try a larger hook size. Check that your corners have the correct number of stitches in them. There are a lot of stitches in each corner, and they must also be separated by 2 ch, not just 1, like the rest of the clusters. If you leave out any of those corner sts, your rectangle will not lie flat.
Why is my rectangle not a neat rectangular shape?
This could also be a tension problem, if you work loosely, it may cause a lopsided shape. In this case, try a smaller crochet hook.
Check your stitch count and symmetry. Each opposite side of the rectangle must have the same number of clusters- so the long sides may have 6 clusters each and the short sides 3 clusters each. If they are not the same, your rectangle will not be neat. The number of clusters will increase each round, but the opposite sides must be the same after each round. Keep counting and checking!
What Can I Make With Granny Rectangles?
Absolutely anything which is based on a rectangle shape!
Even a top! Use a rectangle each for front and back, for a sleeveless top, or crochet another 2 rectangles to form sleeves.
Granny Rectangles – In Conclusion
Granny rectangles are not only easy to make, but you can also work numerous variations on the theme, and they can be used for so many different purposes! Have fun playing around with different types and color variations, and see what else you can come up with! Let your creativity loose!
How to crochet a granny rectangle with this simple step by step tutorial for beginners.
First Row: Ch14. Insert hook into the 4th chain, 2dc, *ch1, sk2, 3dc. Repeat from * across the row. 3dc into the last chain.
First End: ch2, 3dc into the same chain, ch2, 3dc into the same chain.
Next Side: Continue sequence of ch1, sk1, 3dc.
Second End: ch1, 3dc into the first ch, 2ch, 3dc into same stitch, 2ch, sl st into first turning chain.
Second Row: Change colors at the corner, ch3, 2dc into the corner space. 3dc, ch1 into spaces on first side. For first corner, 3dc, 2ch, 3dc. Repeat for second corner.
Third Row: Repeat pattern.