PATTERN REVIEW: Mykonos Shirt and Trousers In Midweight Linen

FS MYKONOS Set Made with FS SHADOW GRAY Midweight Linen and FS OPTIC WHITE Midweight Linen

The Mykonos shirt is a fun new take on the classic button up shirt. It is an oversized shirt; the kind you’d borrow from a boyfriend or perhaps grandpa. Sleeves rolled up, front left unbuttoned, it is the kind of shirt you put on and feel instantly confident and cool, without trying too hard.

I was drawn to the Mykonos set after seeing the model photo and how comfortable the ensemble looked. It seemed so well put together, but effortless at the same time. I noted from the description that the design drew inspiration from men’s tailoring and was intrigued. I would describe my style as feminine and wondered if I could make the Mykonos my own.

FS MYKONOS Set Made with FS SHADOW GRAY Midweight Linen and FS OPTIC WHITE Midweight Linen

Button up shirts are my absolute favorite thing to sew and the Mykonos shirt was unlike any other I’ve encountered. Now, the first thing I must bring to your attention; the numerous pockets! I’ve never made a shirt with in-seam pockets before…how curious. I also fell in love with the camp-style collar shape. The shirt style reminded me of vintage men’s bowling shirts.

I decided to go with FS SHADOW GREY Midweight Softened Linen for the shirt. I was after a softer shade, as there was a chance I might disappear in the shirt’s oversized silhouette. From the photos in the listing, I had pictured a powder pink tone, however, I found it more of a mauve pink in real life.

FS SHADOW GREY Midweight Linen

I know that shirts require many pieces, but boy oh boy, there were a lot of pattern pieces to cut and manage. I would recommend that similar pattern pieces are grouped together, ie pocket pieces with pocket pieces; front, side and back panels together, or it’ll be a confusing mess later. There is a typical method for constructing shirts, but with the unique side seams and pockets, I had to pay attention while following the instructions. FS do a terrific job ensuring that sewists of all levels can follow along with their patterns. But with the side seam pocket construction, I got muddled up and my top stitching in that area is not as neat as it could have been. Also, I found it tricky to attach the top of the facings to the shoulder seams; I couldn’t work out how to create a clean finish here either. I think it would be a good idea to include some fusible webbing between the facing and the shirt or they might flop around while worn.

In terms of the fit, I cut and sewed a size 2 based on my measurements in the size chart and made no adjustments. There’s definitely a great deal of ease in this shirt, and I would recommend sizing down if you are in between sizes.

To be honest, I thought I would wear this shirt as an everyday piece, but it will most likely be reserved as outerwear, over a crop top or turtleneck and pants. It feels heavy and lengthy on me and would be too bulky to tuck into pants. Also, when I compare the shirt on me to the model in the photo, I find the shirt is too long for my height. The shirt ends just below her wrists, where it’s indeed past my hands on me. It’s not possible to crop the shirt now as the in-seam side pockets reside relatively low, but for next time I would try to use adjustment lines to shorten the shirt. I’m 161cm in height for reference.

Now onto the trousers. Initially when I saw this pattern, it was the shirt that caught my attention. But after sewing the full set, I am completely obsessed with the trousers. They didn’t have the usual features that I tend to look for in pants, so I was surprised at how much I liked them. Perhaps it was the light colored linen in the model photo, making the pleat detail difficult to notice, or maybe it was the drawstring in the waistband that deterred me. But once I started constructing them, I could see them for their understated elegance and subtle details.

I chose FS OPTIC WHITE Midweight Linen and something that hadn’t occurred to me at the time was that white linen is not opaque. Maybe with a heavier weight it would be a different story, but when I look in the mirror all I see is my black underwear and the pocket linings. Something to bear in mind next time when choosing a fabric!

I cut and sewed a size 2 going by the measurements in the size chart. I’ve made trousers before so found the process relatively straight forward. However, it was my first time creating welt pockets. I had always imagined my first attempt would be disastrous, but the instructions gently guided me through and I’m thrilled with how my first attempt turned out. Nope, they are not perfect and I will not be letting anyone inspect them closely (nor anyone should be coming that close for inspection). I love trying different pant patterns, it seems all pattern makers have their own way for constructing a fly and I learned a new method with this sew.

FS OPTIC WHITE Midweight Linen

I didn’t need to make any adjustments on the pants aside from taking in the waist by 1cm on both sides. I was surprised to find that these trousers weren’t high-waisted, which seems to be the trend these days. They sit just a bit lower than the belly button, which I would label as mid-rise. I have a swayback and appreciated the curved waistband which provided a snug fit, while still leaving some breathing room. I also removed 16cm from the length of the pants which is not unusual for me. Because of the single pleat, there is just the right amount of volume, as opposed to double pleats which can make me feel like I’m wearing parachutes. From the pamphlet photos, I was worried they would be too fitted around the legs as they looked quite tapered and slim on the model. But, it turns out, I’m a big fan of the shape and haven’t seen a pant leg quite like these… I’d call these a loose straight leg which I find quite flattering on my body shape.

I wasn’t a fan of a drawstring on trousers so omitted it and added a button instead of the hook and eye as I prefer that look. I think they are beautiful and I love how they turned out! To me, these are a versatile pair of trousers that one could wear with a button up to work during the week, or paired with a tee for brunch on the weekend. I never thought I would wear white trousers but I’m excited to add these to my wardrobe.

I want to give a big thank you to FS for giving me the chance to try the Mykonos pattern and write this review. I’m so happy with how my shirt and pants turned out and they will be great for mixing and matching with my other memades.

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