This slip skirt pattern tutorial will show you how to make a pretty slip that can be worn under your favorite dress or skirt. Slips can be worn under sheer garments, to prevent rough fabrics from irritating your skin and to help prevent sweat from showing through. They can also stop your skirt fabric from sticking to your legs due to static.
Slip Skirt Pattern Tutorial
This slip skirt pattern can be used to make a slip of any length. It has enough ease to be comfortable and the elastic waistband means it is easy to make for beginners.
You will need the following supplies:
- FABRIC – The best fabrics to sew a slip skirt pattern are fine with drape. These include silk, satin and fine rayon. These fabrics allow your outer dress or skirt to move and not cling to the slip. Natural fabrics such as silk will breathe better if you are sewing a slip you will wear in summer.
- ELASTIC – ½ inch (12mm) wide elastic.
- LACE – While adding lace is optional, it can add an air of sophistication and luxury to your slip skirt pattern. Choose soft lace that is fine and matches your fabric.
- SEWING SUPPLIES – Measuring tape and ruler pins sewing machine thread.
Measurements for Slip Skirt Pattern
Measure your waist where you want the elastic to sit, your hips at the widest part, and the length of skirt you wish to make from the waist to the hemline. Common lengths are 18 inches (46cm) for mid-thigh and 22 inches (56cm) to the knee.
Taking Waist Measurements
You may find it more comfortable to wear the skirt slightly below the waist. I often make skirts to sit about an inch below my belly button. Also, take into account the height of the waistline of the dress or skirt you will wear this slip skirt pattern underneath.
Taking Length Measurements
Nearly all slips end above the knee. Most common are slips that end at the mid-thigh. If you make one any longer than the knee, you will need to add a slit in order to not restrict your movement. See my tutorial on how to sew a slit.
It is best if the length of the slip skirt pattern is a couple of inches above the garment you will wear underneath. You don’t want the slip to hang lower than your skirt especially if you sit down or are taking a fast walk.
Cutting The Slip Skirt Pattern
In order to make the pattern, cut 2 rectangles. This slip skirt pattern is not tight so you can cut it on the straight grainline. If you want extra stretch (bias cut skirt), then cut the 2 rectangles on the bias.
WIDTH = half the hip + 4 inches
(This is 2.5 inches ease and 1.5 inches of the seam allowance.)
LENGTH = desired finished length + 1.5 inches
(When considering the length, shorten it if you plan to add lace to the bottom.)
- WIDTH = half the hip + 10cm
- (This is 6.5cm ease and 4 cm the seam allowance.)
- LENGTH = desired finished length + 4cm
- (When considering the length, shorten it if you plan to add lace to the bottom.)
Example of Slip Skirt Pattern
If your hip is 40 inches and your desired length is 18 inches
Cut 2 rectangles
- Width = 40/2 +4 = 24 inches
- Length = 18 + 1.5 = 19.5 inches
How to Sew a Slip Skirt Pattern
Because slips are usually sewn in fine fabrics, it is best to use a French seam. This will encase the seams and prevent them from fraying. It will also give a smooth silhouette to the skirt that won’t show through when worn under sheer or thin outer skirts.
Step 1 – Sew the Side Seams
Start by putting your 2 rectangles WRONG sides together. For those of you that sew regularly but haven’t done a French seam yet, this may seem the opposite of what you would normally do, but bear with me!
Stitch the side seams with a ½ inch (12mm) seam allowance.
Trim the seams neatly to ⅛ inch (3mm).
Press the seam to one side and turn the skirt to the WRONG side. Fold and press so the seam join is along the edge.
Stitch with a ¼ inch (6mm) seam allowance.
Turn the slip skirt pattern to the RIGHT side and give the sides a good press. Now turn the skirt to the wrong side ready for the casing and hem.
Step 2 – Sew the Casing
Now for the slip skirt pattern casing:
On the wrong side, press the top edge over by ¼ inch (6mm). Press over again by ¾ inch (2cm) and stitch around the casing a ¾ inch (2cm) leaving gap on one side. It is easiest to make the gap just past one of the side seams.
Attach the elastic to a safety pin and thread it around the casing.
Overlap the ends by ½ inch and stitch them. Two parallel lines of stitching hold the elastic join nice and flat. You can also zig-zag over the join.
Push the elastic back into the casing and stitch the gap closed.
Step 3 – Sew the Hem
For the hem, press up the bottom by ¼ inch (6mm) and then ¼ inch again (6mm). Stitch around the hem. Fine fabrics work best with narrow hems.
Step 4 – Embellish the Slip Skirt Pattern
You can now add lace if you wish. Lace is generally best sewn on with a narrow zig-zag stitch. For sewing tips, read my article on how to sew lace trim. If you are using a slippery fabric like satin or silk, it is best to hand baste the lace on before instead of using pins. I found the lace was slipping all over the place as I sewed.
More Skirt Tutorials
Premium Skirt Patterns
Get more premium skirt patterns from my Treasurie pattern shop. These patterns have multi-sizes and detailed instructions to get great results. All sewing patterns from the Treasurie shop are PDF downloads that you can access immediately.
Slip Skirt Pattern
Make a custom slip skirt pattern from your measurements. This easy slip pattern has a comfortable elastic waist and french seams for durability.
Sewing Basics Thread, pins, needles, iron
- Fabric Silk, satin, fine rayon
- ½ inch (12mm) wide elastic
- Optional – Lace
Measure your waist, hips and desired slip pattern length.
Cut 2 rectangles: Width= ½ hip + 4″ , Length = desired length + 1.5″
With WRONG sides together, stitch the side seams with a ½” seam allowance
Trim the seas to ⅛”
Press the seam to one side and turn the skirt to the WRONG side. Fold and press the seam so the join is on the side.
Stitch with a ¼” seam allowance.
Turn to the right side and press well.
Casing: On the wrong side, press the top edge over by ¼”. Press over again by ¾” and stitch leaving a ¾” gap. Thread elastic with a safety pin, overlap ends and stitch. Stitch gap closed.
Hem: On the wrong side, press hem over ¼”, then ¼” again. Stitch.
Add lace to hem.
Conversions: ⅛” = 3mm, ¼” = 6mm, ½” = 12mm, 4″ = 10cm, 1.5″ = 2cm